LED Specification

So, after all that research, what did I specify?

I got really great technical assistance and a super fast quotation from Mr Resistor so I ended up going with them. They also have a showroom in Wandsworth nearby that I could visit to actually see the colour temperature and brightness of the LED’s suggested before buying. (They also have a great company name!)

After visiting their show room, I opted for the 3400K warm white throughout, rather than their 2700K ‘super warm white’. I was told that 3400K will have a perceived higher brightness, and also that most people opt for this temperature in their bathrooms as it seems ‘cleaner’ and more suitable against all the white fixtures and fittings.  I figured with the study lights on a dimmer, and bathroom wall lights on a separate switch I will be able to achieve the desired lighting effect.

So, this is my specification:



  • LED tape High Brightness – Same spec as above for the same reason
  • Triac LED Dimming Driver – Because I want to be able to dim these lights. Apparently less expensive dimming drivers can cause flickering, so it is worth spending a little bit more on a decent driver if you want dimming capability.


  • LED tape – warm white 3400K – 120LED/m – 24V/ 8W – IP65  – This tape has 500 lumens per linear meter which is appropriate for more subtle feature lighting above and below a medicine cabinet.
  • LED Driver (Constant Voltage) – A slightly different specification from the study as the LED light strips are less powerful.
  • Maxi Surface extrusion – A 12mm deep aluminium extrusion that can hold the LED strip. The increased depth of 12mm allows the LED to be positioned further from the diffuser, thereby minimising the appearance of hot spots.
  • Liger Frosted Extrusion Diffuser – This is the plastic diffuser that you use with the extrusion. To save on cost, I have only ordered an extrusion and diffuser for the run of LED lights at the bottom of my medicine cabinet as that is the only place where you may see them (when sitting in the bath, or reflected in the countertop) and I was keen to avoid seeing the ‘dots’ of each LED point.


Note: There are a few more little bits and pieces that you need to buy like pin connectors, safety covers and power cords that you will need which I havent listed here for simplicity

POST INSTALLATION NOTE: Since installation, I’d say the bathroom LEDs are the right brightness if they are the sole lights in your room. Paired with other lights they are extremely strong and bright and certainly don’t give a ‘subtle’ glow. The length and voltage provided would be enough to light the room on their own. Also, the light is a VERY white light. It is not blue in any way – but it is a cold white light. 


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